Pronunciation: (Ch-esk-eh Kroom-lov)

I wake up early to catch the train out of Praha.  Having my belongings packed 
the night before, I am able to make a graceful exit without disturbing my 
roommates.

Unfortunately for me though, the day is going to start out pretty chaotic.  
Deciphering subway postings the night before, I know the subway line I want to 
ride is closed or affected in some way, and that I should take the tram instead.  
However, when my tram stops at the subway station, instead of following my 
instincts, I get off the tram and take the subway. It goes one stop and returns.  
Rather than wasting any more time, I hop back on another tram and rush over to 
the train station.

Alas, the worst thing possible happens.  As I rush onto the train platform, I 
see my train slowly moving away.  You know, I would rather have missed the train 
completely by half an hour rather than miss it by mere seconds.  The next train 
doesn't leave for another two hours.  I wait it out, and a couple of hours later 
I make it into Ceske Budejovice.  From here, I connect onto a tiny two-car train 
to Cesky Krumlov.  

The train ride to Cesky Krumlov is fun and picturesque, but it's definitely not 
as efficient as taking the bus.  Mostly locals who live near the train stops and 
tourists ride it.  I'm also accompanied by some backpackers from New Zealand 
whom I make friends with.  The train ride is much different from previous trains 
as it meanders slowly across the scenic Czech countryside.

Arriving in Cesky Krumlov, my friends and I hop onto a local bus to reach the 
town center.  Following a map I obtained from my hostel in Prague, we walk over 
to Krumlov House, a popular hostel run by American expats.  Unfortunately, it's 
fully booked, and my reservation fell through.  Fortunately, the staff there 
calls up other hostels in the vicinity and we find an opening at the cozy Hostel 
Merlin.  

It is an absolutely beautiful fall day, and I rush across medieval bridges, over 
the slow-moving winding river, past small waterfalls, and through crooked 
cobblestone streets in the old town to drop off my belongings at my hostel.  The 
tree colours are incredibly vibrant and the sun just brings an additional warmth 
to the town.  The smell of nature and Czech food fills the air.

Cesky Krumlov is a fairy-tale town, and the most charming one I've been to on 
this trip.  For its quaintness, I rank it alongside my favourite towns such as 
Interlaken, Switzerland and Cinque Terre, Italy.  Nestled amongst rolling hills 
and forests, Cesky Krumlov is built around a narrow, winding section of the 
Vltava river.  I've come here after watching the Czech movie "Kolya" a few years 
ago.  It definitely has a small town feel, and it takes one back to a simpler, 
humbler lifestyle.

On first impressions, I am completely captivated.  I calm my initial excitement 
down and decide to spend the day in relaxation.  I make my way down to the 
river, where I watch ducks swim and leaves fall on the mirror-like water in the 
setting sun.  I stroll along the serene river for a while before making my way 
to the castle.  Unlike other castles, Cesky Krumlov's castle is smaller, but by 
no means does this take away from its grandeur.  It is tall and narrow with a 
dominant presence as it rises sharply above the town on a hill.  It is much 
different as exterior designs are painted on the castle, which only adds to the 
fairy-tale effect.

I cross a bridge over the castle moat, stocked with a brown bear, and ascend the 
castle to get inspiring views of the town.  Continuing on, I immediately find 
myself in the Czech countryside, and I venture out for a while.  Everything 
seems to slow down in Cesky Krumlov.

Making my way back to my hostel, I meet up with my roommate and we head out for 
dinner.  I met my roommate earlier as she was lost entering town, and I ended up 
guiding her to my hostel.  She's a Canuck from the Northwest Territories (NWT).  
For those of you not familiar with Canada, NWT is a vast, underpopulated region.  
I only know one other person from NWT, and because NWT is so sparse, she takes 
more interest in where my other friend is from than I would, say if she knew 
someone who lived around Toronto.

Looking through the menu at the dinner table, I know I am going to have a feast.  
The prices are low and the freedom of ordering anything I want puts an immense 
smile on my face.  I order one of the inn's specialty, Rosenburg's Feast, a 
conglomeration of roasted meat on a bed of vegetables and meat.  I fill up on 
this hearty Czech meal, accompanied with Czech Cola served in old-fashioned 
bottles.  For dessert, I enjoy an order of hot fruit dumplings.  Needless to 
say, I leave the restaurant very satisfied.

Back in the hostel, I feel like dropping off to sleep, but we instead gather up 
some more hostellers and head to a bar to drink and chat.  The beer here is all 
right.  As a side note, the Czechs have a beer call Budvar, or Budweiser, which 
is unrelated to the American beer.  It's the original beer to have the name 
(translated from German meaning "from Ceske Budejovice") - the American 
Budweiser started using the name some time later and trademark disputes have 
abounded since.  Article if you'd like to know more:

http://www.radio.cz/en/article/34454

I love Cesky Krumlov.  I'm going to extend my stay.


Next: Cesky Krumlov, the Haunting