From my Let's Go travel guide:

George Bernard Shaw once wrote: "Those who seek
Paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik."  Nearly
scarles despite recent wars, the city continues to
draw visitors with azure waters and golden sunsets
over its 14th century marble walls.  If you make it as
far south as Dubrovnik, you might never leave.

My day started with a bus ride out of Split at the
ungodly hour of 4am.  As I'm riding on the bus, I
discover that I got on the wrong company's bus (same
destination though).  The driver stops half an hour
later on the side of the road to switch me over.  It's
still dark, but I can see the shore of the Adriatic
just off to the side of the road.  And I can see
through it to the bottom.  I can't sleep for the rest
of the ride.

As the sun rises, the trip goes along a scenic
mountain stretch, passing many of Croatia's islands,
and crossing through Bosnia briefly.  I arrive into
town and am approached by many people for Sobe
(private room).  I decide to stay at a lady's home as
she shows me pictures and the house is virtually in
the Stari Grad (the old town).  From the patio, I have
a great view of one of Dubrovnik's great structures. 
The shore is only steps away through some cobblestone
alleys.    

Overall, there is a good vibe with Sobe.  In most of
Croatia, Sobe house have an official "Sobe" sign on
them.  The person renting out drove me to the house,
and helped me around Dubrovnik.  If you decide to
visit Croatia, let me know, and I'll pass you her
contact information.  Other travellers have told me of
friendly encounters with their renters - having food
cooked for, getting freshly picked fruits in the
morning, etc. 

I quickly put away all my belongings and enter
Dubrovnik's old town.  It is much larger than Split
and very impressive.  The old town is completely
fortified with tall walls, and can only be entered via
medieval gates.  The Adriatic Sea surrounds many of
the sides.  Inside the center of town, there are wide
main paths with fountains, statues, and impressive
building and churches.  On the sides approaching the
wall, residential complexes clutter beside each other
and rise steeply as they approach the city wall, so
that all homes receive a decent amount of light.  

I enjoyed the residential areas the most, as the
German tourists no longer ventured so deep and so
high.  Every alley is so picturesque, with little
pedestrian bridges connecting houses, colourful
clothes hanging to dry, and exotic plants put out for
decoration.  It's a really fun maze in there -
stairways climb and descend, running into each other;
paths lead to secret gardens, hidden yards and
corridors, miniature plazas, dead ends, and pass
ancient artifacts, fountains, archways, small
restaurants, and hidden churches along the way.  It's
very unique because there are less flat pathways than
ascending/descending stairways.  In fact, one of my
most exciting finds was a real monastery hidden past
an art gallery in northwest corner of the old town. 
It had a beautiful garden opened to the sun, with
lovely columns built around it.

I pick up lunch and easily find solitude as I take it
up to to a random residential section and ate on the
stairs.  I could hear the delightful sounds of
conversation and the sound of pots and pans, and smell
wonderful Croatian cooking.

I continue to wander, and run into an local sculptor
living near the north wall.  Drunk as he may be, his
home is quaint and traditional (stone stove too!), and
we converse for a while.  I go to his rooftop and am
rewarded with some spectacular views.  In the end, he
give me one of his pieces to take home.  

There is evidence of war though, with a sign at the
entrance of Dubrovnik indicating all the damage done
by the recent war.  Patched up bullet holes can be
seen in the wall, as well as unmatching replacement
shingles on roofs of houses.

The sun comes out and I look at the Adriatic Sea - the
azure waters are astounding, and I can see clearly
through the shallow areas.  

Back in the main area of town, I visit the oldest
pharmacy in the world, monks on the street, and simple
churches and museums.

Dinner consists of Sloveninan beer, Dalmatian smoked
ham, Dalmatian cheese and oil, and a wonderful spongy
bread.  I believe the peppers here are the secret
ingredient they add to everything - it's not as sweet
as the North American peppers, but are very crunchy
and have a great tanginess to them.

I put my secret adventure to rest in preparation for
another to come.

Next: One Great Day in the Croatian Islands