I watch three operas during my stay here in Vienna: L'Elisir D'Amore (Love 
Potion), Falstaff, and La Bohéme.  Given budget constraints, I opt to watch the 
operas standing.  The standing room culture is as interesting as the opera 
itself.

For the first opera, L'Elisir D'Amore, I find myself waiting in line for about 
45 minutes.  I notice further ahead of the line, some people are seated on the 
ground - luxury for the early birds.  I'm tempted to leave the line, but as I 
see the line extend behind me, I succumb to mob mentality and decide to wait it 
out to see if it's worth it.

The ticket booth finally opens and a number of ushers wave us ahead.  There are 
three standing areas, two on the upper balconies, and one at the back of the 
main floor.  I buy a main floor ticket for 3.50 Euros - the ticket is definitely 
priced to promote the opera culture.

After purchasing the tickets, I get ushered to another line, where we wait until 
all standing room tickets are sold.  Next, we are directed to the standing area.  
The standing room area is on a first-come first-serve basis, so it's a bit of a 
frenzy as people grab spots on the rows that have railings to lean on.  The 
railings are also fitted with small translation boxes.  The boxes translate the 
sung lyrics to German or English, even if the opera is in German (or English?), 
because admittedly, it's hard to make out what the singers are ever saying.

Those who arrive late end up standing crammed along the aisle, which is actually 
a pretty serious fire hazard.  The most unfortunate won't have a view and are 
forced only to listen to the opera.  

The frenzy ends, and I relax a little, chatting with my standing-room 
neighbours.  During my opera experience, I meet some locals but am mostly 
accompanied by an diverse international crowd - Japanese, Chinese, French, 
American, South American.  

At this point, the "boss usher" yells out the rules of the opera house.  The 
opera does not start for another 40 minutes, so she tells us to mark our spots 
however we can before leaving.  People tie scarves, belts, bags, etc. on the 
railing and then exit the standing room to get some air.  People on the aisles 
mark their spots by tying something on the ends of the nearest railing.  I tie 
my belt and leave, noting that the standing room area now looks like Mardis Gras 
just passed through it.  

Not having seen an opera in years, I'm worried that I might find it boring 
compared to the musicals that I've feasted on in New York City.  I walk out of 
the opera house and into the subway mall, where I purchase an espresso.  It 
doesn't seem like it will be enough, so I add a Red Bull energy drink to the 
order.  Red Bull is pretty strong - combine it with vodka, and it will make an 
opera seem more like a rave.

It turns out that I don't really need it after all.  L'Elisir D'Amore turns out 
to be funny and entertaining.  Thankfully, the translations made the experience 
much more bearable.

Unfortunately, on the second Viennese opera experience, I arrive late and find 
myself standing outside in line.  I end up as the loser on the aisles.  
Fortunately, I'm located along the second row, and the person in front of me has 
a translation box.  I let him know my predicament, and he benevolently sets his 
box to read out English.

Falstaff has a great stage operating on hydraulics - how the crew switches the 
stages for each opera so fast, which changes each day, baffles me.  During 
intermission, between dining on caviar and mingling with Vienna's finest (yeah, 
right), I head out for another Red Bull - as a precaution.  I'm also joined by 
some of Vienna's finest, looking to conquer their hunger pangs with pizza rather 
than expensive bits of fish eggs on cracker.

Usually, two operas are more than enough, but I know I can't miss Puccini's 
famous opera, "La Bohéme", for which a musical of the same name and "Rent" are 
based on.  At this point, I know the rules of engagement for obtaining standing 
room tickets, and am like a Rent-head in NYC - those who continuously wait for 
the front row tickets to watch the musical Rent.  I guess I'm an "Opera-head", 
which sadly sounds like a much geekier version.

I know this opera is very popular, so I arrive at the opera house early enough 
to get a spot to sit and wait inside the building.  It pays off and I get a 
position on the second row of the standing area.  Mind you, just because I'm 
standing does not mean I don't have a good view.  In fact, I have a better view 
than half of the opera.  The standing room areas is just behind the 13th row on 
the main floor, and closer than the people on the mezzanine and balconies.

La Bohéme is incredible.  Aside from hearing familiar pieces such as Musetta's 
Waltz, the set is very lavish.  The second scene, in particular, jumps out at 
you.  It's a spectacular street market scene, with the stage loaded with over a 
hundred extras scuttling about.  

The opera ends and I head out into the ... snow!  It's really rare to have snow 
at this time of year, judging by the way people are dressed, as well as the 
average temperature statistics in my guidebook.  Still, it adds to a peaceful 
walk home as the gentle flakes descend on the still city.  It'll make for an 
interesting day in Salzburg.


Next: Bratislava - Communist's Paradise!