Well, I did it.  On a whim, I left Istanbul early and
was on the bus 2 hours after I wrote my last e-mail.  

But first off, I'd really like to clarify how safe
Turkey is.  I mean, the situation I wrote where that
creepy guy tried to lure me somewhere is really rare. 
Turkey is populated with 99% disciplined Muslims, and
I carry my nice camera around with no worries.

So it was my first experience with Turkey's intercity
bus system, and I was not prepared.  Entering the bus
station, I am first overwhelmed with men touting me
with offers of help on finding a bus (I end up paying
a higher price and they get a commission).  I brush
them off, only to find myself confronted with scores
of bus companies and service - it's like finding a
needle in the haystack.  Eventually, I see my
destination and buy a ticket with that company.  

Now, looking back on hindsight, I rushed in to buy a
ticket.  You can choose from more reputable bus
companies, as well as spend some time shopping around
for a better price on another bus line.  Just give
yourself 1/2 hour to an hour to do the "shopping".

Going back into the station to grab a bite - I'm
touted by vendors to buy from them - I end up buying a
pretty sketchy kebap.  I eat half of it, and then
decide to trash the rest, given that I do not want to
deal with the runs while on a 9 hour bus ride.  I also
find out that my bus has not washrooms on board, so I
pop two Pepto Bismol caplets, just in case. 
Fortunately, I'm seated far at the back of the bus,
away from everyone else - I suppose, the "foreigner"
seating or the minority spot.

The buses are really nice, and all are in great
condition, and washed at every stop.  There is an
attendant on the bus to sell snacks and give out
bottled water - I call him "waterboy".

The bus ride is interesting.  It has a ferried part,
goes through different neighbourhoods and industrial
areas.  What I noticed is that at 3 or 4 in the
morning, most of the stores and restaurant along the
route are open (I had another sleepless night).

Getting into Izmir, a big, dusty, hub town, with a big
bus terminal, I discover that the bus company wasn't
going to take me to my final destination - Selcuk. 
Instead, waterboy pays a mini-bus company, and I make
the transfer over.

Reaching Selcuk, I am immediately flanked by 5 guys
trying to get commissions on accommodations.  I know
where I'm going, and find my pension.  For $8, I have
my own room, bath, and a view of a nice plaza -
decorated with fountains and the ruins of a Roman
aquaduct.  

In fact, that's the theme for today - ruins.  There's
lots of them scatter over Selcuk, and the biggest ones
are yet to come.  I spend the first few hours
wandering, visiting some impressive church ruins,
numerous pedestrian streets, an old mosque, and having
tea with some locals.  I also try renting a hybrid
motorbike all the locals seem to have, but to no
success.

I follow my guide book to an amazing restaurant -
Karamese.  It's full of treehouses, waterfalls, and
huts, with cushions to sit on.  They aren't serving
food yet, but this is one of the coolest places I've
ever seen to eat.  It's like combining Marche with
eating over at the Swiss Family Robinsons'.

I head over to someone else to eat a Turkish pizza
with ayran, a salty yogurt drink for hot days like
today.

Then it's off to Ephesus, site of the greatest ruins
in the world.  I get a free ride there through my
hotel.  A brief history of Ephesus: Ephesus was once
the second largest city in the Roman Empire, and the
capital of the province of Asia.  Eventually, it fell
with all great civilizations, and then was ransacked
by the Goths and Byzantines.  What's left of the ruins
now is .... A LOT.

I mean, there's so much there to keep track off -
tablets, fragments of buildings everywhere, marble
floors, statues, columns, columns, and more columns.
People say that in Turkey, the Roman ruins are better
than those in Rome, and the Greek ruins are better
than the ones in Greece.  I agree. The ancient city is
still very visible, and excavation is still ongoing. 
I'll admit I was a bit of a reckless visitor, hopping
on columns, picking up an amphora or two, and being
tempted to test the ancient toilet facilities.  

It's a beatiful site, situated amongst some mountains,
and sitting alone in the Great Theatre - made for
25,000 people - is quite a thrill.  I spend quite a
while there before heading off.  

Well, heading off will be the drama for the day, for
my driver, for whatever reason, doesn't show up at the
agreed pickup time.  I'm pretty tired from the hot
weather, but I suck it up, buy a bottle of water, and
walk the 3km back to town.  Fortunately, there are
lots of ruins to see along the way, and it's a nice
tree-lined path back.

Nevertheless, I'm too beat to head over to a quaint,
little town nearby (Sirince) for dinner, or go for a
Turkish bath.


I'm still not sure what I'm going to do tomorrow!