What better way is there to start the trip off than to
have a little drama?

The flight went well.  The  $45 US visa I purchased on
arrival looks like something any old inkjet printer
could print up - definitely a stark contrast from the
banknote-looking visas I have for the Czech Republic
and Poland.

Anyways, the first problem I encountered was being
unable to withdraw any money with my bank card from
all the major bank machines at the airport!  I panick.
As cheap as Turkey is, there's no way I can survive
the next while with the little cash I have on me.

I keep as level-headed as I can, noting other tourists
are also having diffculty with the ATMs.  I exchange
some Canadian currency, and  ampleased to discover I
suddenly have become a millionaire.  The Turkish lira
has over-inflated in the past few years to the point
where $1US is approximately 1,000,000 lira.

Exiting the airport, I check out my transportation
alternatives into Sultanahemet, an old neighbourhood
of Turkey where most of the major tourist sites are
located.  I see a loaded bus carrying tourists, but I
pass it up as it doesn't take me close enough to my
neighbourhood.  Instead, I bargain with a dolmus
(mini-bus) driver to take me to my hostel for the same
price as a fare on the bus.  Sweet.  I was going to
split the ride with some other backpackers I spotted
to further reduce the costs, but they left already.

It's been a bit stressful for me leading up to now - I
wasn't feeling too much like travelling, I have no
solid source of money (though I did work out some
alternatives in my head by this time), and I'm a bit
jet-lagged.  The drive definitely woke me up.  It's a
beautiful, sunny drive along the Black Sea Coast.  The
air is warm and smells like the sea - I finally feel
like I'm somewhere else and excitement builds.

I arrive in hostel-land, and am pleased to discover my
first choice has availability.  I can honestly say
this is the BEST hostel I've ever been in.  The
rooftop terrace has two levels, outdoor sofas, and a
bar.  On one side, I can see the beautful Aya Sophia.
On the other sides, I have excellent views of the
Bosphorus River and the Black Sea.  The view is
fantastic - I'm not kidding, and I'll bring back
pictures to prove it!

I head right out into the cobblestone roads, not
giving myself a chance to fall asleep.

OK, I'll admit that I took these homeopathic "No Jet
Lag" pills, and they work like a charm (or a great
mental placebo?)  First I tackle the Aya Sophia, right
at my doorstep.  Incredible Byzantine art lines the
ceiling, though some of it is in need of restoration.

Working up a bit of hunger now, I settle into a small
terrace restaurant, where I sit at a floor-to-ceiling
open window overlooking a quaint street.  For those
who remembered my backpacking trip to Western Europe
years ago, the best pita/gyros/sandwich/sub type food
I've ever had was a Turkish kebap from the Turkish
quarter of Koln (Cologne), Germany.  I've dreamed of
it ever since.

The food here is excellent.  I order the iskendar
kebap, a tomato + yogurt kebap served so fresh that
many restaurants don't make them after 3pm.

All filled up, I head towards the Blue Mosque.  Just
as impressive as the Aya Sophia, this active mosque is
named as such from the beautiful blue tile work on the
inside.  It's carpeted on the inside, and all visitors
have to take off their shoes before entering.  I won't
lie though - there is a pungent smell of feet inside
the building...

Back outside, I wander through the Hippodrome, a
street where the Romans used to race chariots - now
converted to a pedestrian street with numerous vendor
stalls.  The food vendors are just setting up - then I
remember that it's Ramazan (or Ramadan) right now,
where good Muslims don't let anything pass between
their lips during the daylight hours.

By now, I need a break.  I head back to the hostel to
recharge a little, chat with my three roommates from
Australia.  The sun is setting, and one of my roomies
take me up to a secret restaurant, where she's
befriended the staff.  From the terrace, I have the
most incredible views of the Aya Sophia and the Blue
Mosque (no "looking-up" shots).  I snap a few shots
and make a strong mental note to return again
tomorrow.

I'm tempted to cross the Bosphorus river to the Asian
side (Istanbul is divided in two by the Bosphorus
River - the Europe side, and the Asian side), and
watch some whirling dervishes in Taksim.  The journey
seems a bit excessive at this time though, as bus
service has stopped.  So instead, I wander back into
the Hippodrome, pick up all sorts of different food
for dinner (uh-oh: street food alert!), before going
back to the hostel's roof terrace.

Surprisingly, no one is here -  I have this fantastic
view all to myself!  A gentle sea breeze plus the
background sound of live prayer chants echoing through
the neighbourhood simply makes this a moment I'll
never forget.


p.s. Once I'm finished sending this e-mail, I'm
heading back to the terrace!