Return to Istanbul Back in the big city in the early morning, I join the pack of rush hour commuters, with my big backpack and all, and head into the main part of the city. I return to the hostel I first checked into when I first arrived in Turkey and quickly check-in. I have breakfast with a girl from New Zealand who's just starting her journey. We have a good convesation as I help her plan her trip and give her tips - pretty amusing "circle of life" of travelling as I'm going and she's coming. I also meet another couple who's starting their journey through the Middle East. They had already travelled through Turkey, but after their trip here, they discovered the rest of the Middle East was worth seeing, which is what I'm feeling now too. For the first part of the day, I take a visit to the Archaeological Museum, which I missed the first time around. It's huge, with the highlight being the ornate Alexander Sarchophagus. Afterwards, I take the Bosphorus river tour, seeing many palaces and sites dotted along the river. It's a really cheap tour - I think it costed me 3 or 4 dollars. I give Turkish coffee a try on the boat, but it's much too strong for me - it's like a really bitter concentrated espresso. At the pier, I grab a fresh palamut fish sandwich from a sidewalk grill. Pretty good, but not as good as the street meat in Ankara. I think it needs some lemon or spice. Having some free time to waner, I check out the bazaar, hoping to get some cheap souvenirs. I try to skip the bargaining process by telling the vendors the prices of items I've seen in other part of Turkey. Unfortunately, I'm out of luck, and the vendors here won't lower their prices to anything remotely close to the prices I've seen in central Turkey. Giving up on the shopping (it's not my thing anyways), I make my way to the Museum of Islamic Arts. It's all right, but yeah, it's heavily Islamic themed - I don't fully comprehend the significance of many of items and don't stay long. I earlier arranged in the morning to meet up with the NZ girl I had breakfast with for dinner. She's still battling jet lag, but hauls herself out of bed to hit the lively streets. We head out to the lively Hippodrome, where the post-fasting revellers and tourist congregate for really good food. We end up trying out the stuffed potato there - it's really stuffed, messy, and really good. The seating is amusing, really short but cozy tables and chairs in the back of the street stall. I really wish I had a larger stomach to try everything offered here. After the snack, we make our way over to the hip Taksim area, have a quick stop at an ultra-cool Andy Warhol-esque coffee shop before searching for some dessert. I settle on a Turkish fruit dessert, which like other desserts, is overly sweet, and leaves me feeling pretty ill. Will I ever learn? Even thinking of that dessert now makes me a little queasy. We stay out pretty late, so upon return, we discover the old subway that takes us back down is close. Oh well, the steep stroll brings us to some interesting sites and a long walk along the Bosphorus shore, with a great view of the city lights. Nice way to finish off my trip.